Washing Machine
E20
The E20 error code on an Electrolux washing machine points to a drainage problem — the machine is telling you it can’t pump water out fast enough, or at all. It’s one of the most common fault codes Electrolux owners encounter, and the good news is that in most cases it’s something you can diagnose and fix yourself at home without spending a penny on a callout. In this guide, we’ll walk you through exactly what E20 means, the most likely causes, and a clear step-by-step fix — as well as being honest about when it’s time to call in a professional appliance engineer.
What does this error mean?
The E20 error code on Electrolux washing machines (including models sold under the AEG and Zanussi brands, which share the same platform) is a drain fault. Specifically, it means the machine has attempted to drain water during a cycle and the water level sensor has detected that the drum hasn’t emptied within the expected time window. The machine’s control board monitors how quickly the water level drops when the drain pump activates. If the drum still has water in it after a set period — typically around two to three minutes — it throws the E20 code and halts the cycle to prevent flooding or damage to internal components. In simple terms: water is going in, but it’s not coming out properly. The fault could be a blockage, a failed pump, or a kinked hose — but the machine itself is working correctly by flagging it.
Est. repair cost
DIY fix (filter cleaning): £0. Replacement drain pump (DIY part): £15–£35. Professional pump replacement (parts + labour): £100–£160. PCB fault repair: £180–£280.
🔍 Likely causes
🛠️ Step-by-step fix
Step 1 — Cancel the cycle and switch off the machine: Press the power button to cancel the programme and switch the machine off at the wall socket. Wait two minutes. This is a basic reset and occasionally clears a temporary sensor glitch. Turn it back on and run a short spin-only cycle to see if the error returns before doing anything else.
Step 2 — Check the drain hose at the back: Pull the machine forward slightly (get help if needed — wet machines are heavy) and inspect the corrugated grey or black drain hose running from the back of the machine to your standpipe or sink waste. Look for sharp kinks, tight bends, or crushing where it meets the wall. Straighten any kinks and ensure there is a smooth, gradual curve. The hose outlet should be positioned between 60cm and 100cm from the floor — too high and the pump struggles, too low and water siphons out prematurely.
Step 3 — Check the standpipe or sink waste connection isn’t blocked: Disconnect the drain hose from the standpipe or sink trap. Run your sink tap and confirm water flows freely through the waste — if it drains slowly, your sink trap is partially blocked and needs clearing with a drain unblocker or by removing and cleaning the trap under the sink.
Step 4 — Prepare to clean the pump filter: Place several old towels on the floor directly in front of the machine. You’ll need a shallow tray or baking dish (something flat and wide — the residual water that comes out can be several litres). Locate the small access panel at the bottom front of the machine — it either clips off or has a small screw. Open it.
Step 5 — Drain residual water via the emergency drain hose: Inside the filter compartment you’ll see a small black rubber drain hose with a cap on the end. Pull this out, hold it over your tray, and remove the cap. Allow all the water to drain out — this may take a few minutes. Replace the cap firmly when done. Do not skip this step, or you will flood your floor when you open the filter.
Step 6 — Remove and clean the pump filter: Grip the large circular filter cap (it usually has ridges or a coin slot) and turn it anticlockwise to unscrew it. Pull it straight out. You will likely find a matted collection of fluff, hair, coins, buttons, or other debris. Rinse the filter thoroughly under a hot tap, using an old toothbrush to clear the mesh if needed. Also shine a torch into the filter housing and carefully remove any debris inside with your fingers — check for a small plastic impeller (fan blade) visible at the back of the cavity and make sure it can spin freely.
Step 7 — Reinstall the filter and test: Screw the filter cap back in clockwise until it is hand-tight — do not overtighten. Close the access panel. Run the machine on a short cotton cycle or spin-only programme and watch for the E20 code. If water drains correctly and the code is gone, the problem is solved.
Step 8 — Check for a jammed pump impeller (if E20 persists): If the filter was clean but the pump makes a humming noise during the drain phase (you can listen at the front bottom of the machine), a foreign object may be jamming the impeller. With the machine switched off and unplugged, remove the filter again and use a torch to look at the impeller. Try rotating it with a finger or a pen — it should spin freely. If it is stuck or you can see an object lodged in it (a hairpin is a very common culprit), carefully remove the obstruction. Test again.
Step 9 — If there is no sound at all from the pump: A completely silent pump during the drain phase (no hum, no vibration) strongly suggests a failed pump motor. At this point, DIY repair means accessing the internal components of the machine — specifically disconnecting the pump from the wiring loom and replacing it. This is achievable for a confident DIYer: the drain pump on most Electrolux front-loaders is accessed by laying the machine on its back and removing a few screws, and genuine replacement pumps (or quality aftermarket equivalents) are widely available for £15–£35 online. However, if you are not comfortable working with appliance electrics and water connections simultaneously, stop here and call a professional.
Step 10 — If you suspect a pressure switch or PCB fault: If drainage appears to be working fine (water exits the machine, the hose is clear, the pump runs) but the E20 code persists, you likely have a faulty pressure switch or a control board issue. These faults require diagnostic equipment and component-level testing. Do not attempt to repair or replace the PCB yourself — call a qualified appliance engineer.
📞 When to call a professional
You should stop DIY and call a qualified appliance engineer if: the pump is completely silent during the drain phase and cleaning the filter has made no difference (likely a burnt-out pump motor that needs replacement); you can see or smell scorching near the bottom of the machine; the E20 code returns immediately even after fully clearing a blocked filter and hose; or the machine is also displaying other error codes alongside E20 (which may point to a PCB or wiring fault). When you call, tell the engineer: ‘My Electrolux washing machine is showing an E20 error code — a drain fault. I’ve already cleaned the pump filter, checked the drain hose for kinks, and confirmed the standpipe is clear, but the error persists. I believe the drain pump may have failed.’ This saves diagnostic time and may reduce your callout cost. Look for an engineer who is a member of the Domestic Appliance Service Association (DASA) or carries manufacturer-recognised training. Expect a callout and diagnostic fee of £50–£80 before any parts are quoted.
⚖️ Repair or replace?
For most Electrolux E20 faults, repair is the right call — especially if your machine is under 8 years old. A drain pump replacement by a professional will typically cost £100–£160 all-in (parts and labour), which is well worth it on a machine that cost £400–£700 new. Electrolux, AEG, and Zanussi machines share a common parts ecosystem, meaning spare parts are widely available in the UK from suppliers like eSpares, BuySpares, and 4ourhouse — this keeps repair costs down compared to some more obscure brands. If your machine is over 8–10 years old and has previously had other faults repaired, the calculus changes. A new mid-range Electrolux or equivalent will cost £350–£600, and a repair bill of £150+ on an ageing machine is harder to justify. A rough rule of thumb: if the repair costs more than 50% of the replacement value of the machine, replace it. If the fault turns out to be a PCB (control board), costs can rise to £180–£280 for professional repair — on an older machine, this almost always tips the decision towards replacement.