Dishwasher
1E
The 1E error code on an LG dishwasher points to a water level or inlet sensor fault — most commonly a problem with the water supply getting into the machine or the sensor that detects it. It’s one of the more common LG dishwasher faults and, reassuringly, it’s often something you can resolve yourself in under an hour without any specialist tools. In this guide, we’ll walk you through exactly what’s triggering the code, the most likely culprits, and a clear set of steps to get your dishwasher running again.
What does this error mean?
The 1E error code (sometimes displayed as IE on older LG models, as the number ‘1’ and the letter ‘I’ can look identical on certain displays) is LG’s way of telling you there’s a problem with the water inlet. Specifically, the dishwasher’s control board has detected that the machine isn’t filling with water correctly — either because not enough water is entering the drum, or because the flow isn’t being registered by the water inlet sensor (also called the water level sensor or turbidity sensor). In plain terms: your dishwasher is trying to fill up, but something is stopping water from getting in, or stopping it from being measured properly. Without the right water level, the machine will refuse to run a wash cycle to protect its pump and heating element from running dry.
Est. repair cost
DIY fix (inlet hose filter, descaler, filter clean): £3–£15. Replacement inlet valve (DIY part): £15–£35. Professional callout + diagnosis: £60–£90. Full professional repair including parts (inlet valve or sensor): £100–£200.
🔍 Likely causes
🛠️ Step-by-step fix
Step 1 — Reset the dishwasher first: Before doing anything else, switch the dishwasher off at the mains socket, wait 60 seconds, then power it back on and try a new cycle. A temporary electrical glitch can trigger a 1E code, and a hard reset clears it immediately. No tools needed.
Step 2 — Check the water supply tap is fully open: Open the cupboard under your sink and locate the isolation valve on the cold water feed pipe running to the dishwasher. Make sure the slot on the valve head is aligned with the pipe (parallel = open; perpendicular = closed). Turn it fully open if needed. No tools required.
Step 3 — Inspect the inlet hose for kinks: Carefully pull the dishwasher out slightly from under the worktop (get someone to help — dishwashers are heavy) and check the braided inlet hose running to the back of the machine. Straighten any kinks and ensure the hose isn’t being crushed against the wall or cabinet. No tools needed, but a second pair of hands helps.
Step 4 — Check your household water pressure: Run your cold kitchen tap on full. If the flow seems unusually weak, low mains pressure may be the issue. Contact your water supplier (e.g. Thames Water, Severn Trent) to check for local supply issues. You can also buy a simple pressure gauge from a DIY store (£10–£15) and attach it to an outside tap to check the pressure reading.
Step 5 — Clean the inlet hose filter mesh: Turn off the water supply tap, then disconnect the inlet hose from the back of the dishwasher (have a towel and small bowl ready — water will spill). At the point where the hose connects to the machine, you’ll find a small mesh filter screen. Remove it carefully with needle-nose pliers or tweezers, rinse it under the tap to remove any grit or limescale, and refit. Reconnect the hose, turn the water back on, and test.
Step 6 — Clean the dishwasher’s internal filter and sump: Remove the lower rack, then unscrew and lift out the cylindrical filter in the base of the drum. Rinse it thoroughly under warm running water, using a soft brush to remove grease and debris. Also clear any visible debris from the sump area below. Refit the filter, replace the rack, and run a short cycle to test. No tools needed.
Step 7 — Run a descaling cycle: In hard-water areas, limescale is a common cause of sensor and valve issues on LG dishwashers. Add a proprietary dishwasher descaler (such as Finish Dishwasher Cleaner or a citric acid-based product — roughly £3–£6 from supermarkets) to the base of the empty drum and run the hottest cycle available. This can dissolve limescale affecting the flow sensor or inlet valve.
Step 8 — Inspect and test the water inlet valve (only if confident with basic DIY): If the above steps haven’t resolved the 1E code, the inlet valve itself may be blocked or failed. Turn off the water supply and isolate the dishwasher from the mains. The inlet valve is typically located at the back bottom of the machine, where the inlet hose connects internally. You can check for visible blockages in the valve body, but testing the valve solenoid’s electrical continuity requires a multimeter. If you’re not comfortable using a multimeter or handling internal components, skip this step and call a professional instead.
Step 9 — If the 1E code persists after all the above steps, do not continue to attempt DIY repairs involving the control board or internal wiring. At this point, the fault is likely to be either a failed inlet valve (requiring replacement), a faulty flow sensor, or a PCB issue — all of which are best diagnosed and repaired by a qualified appliance engineer.
📞 When to call a professional
You should stop DIY attempts and call a qualified appliance engineer if: the 1E code returns immediately after a reset and you’ve confirmed the water supply and hose are fine; you’ve cleaned the filters and inlet mesh with no improvement; you suspect the inlet valve or flow sensor has failed (these involve internal electrical components and should not be opened by an unqualified person); or if your dishwasher is displaying additional error codes alongside 1E. When you call, tell the engineer: ‘My LG dishwasher is showing a 1E error code, which I understand relates to the water inlet. I’ve already checked the supply tap, inlet hose, and cleaned the filters, but the fault persists.’ This will save diagnostic time. Look for an engineer who is a member of the Domestic Appliance Service Association (DASA) or carries City & Guilds appliance repair qualifications. Most reputable local appliance repair companies in the UK will offer a callout and diagnosis visit for £60–£90.
⚖️ Repair or replace?
For a dishwasher under 5 years old, repair almost always makes financial sense. LG is a well-supported brand in the UK, with inlet valves (£15–£35), flow sensors (£20–£45), and control boards (£80–£150) all readily available from UK suppliers such as eSpares, Sears Parts Direct UK, and ApplianceSparesParts.co.uk. A professional repair including parts and labour is typically £100–£200 — considerably cheaper than a new mid-range dishwasher (£350–£700). For dishwashers aged 7–10 years or older, weigh up the repair cost carefully. If the engineer quotes over £150 for parts and labour, and your machine is over 8 years old, it may be more economical to replace it with a new energy-efficient model. LG’s current dishwasher range carries strong Which? reviews and benefits from improved water-saving technology, so an upgrade could reduce your long-term running costs. If your machine is still under LG’s manufacturer warranty (typically 1–2 years) or an extended warranty, contact LG UK customer services first on 0344 847 5454 before spending any money on a repair.