Washing Machine
5E
The 5E error code on a Samsung washing machine (sometimes displayed as SE on older models) means your machine has detected a drainage problem — it can’t pump water out fast enough, or at all. It’s one of the most common Samsung washing machine faults, and the good news is that the majority of cases are caused by a blocked filter or kinked drain hose that you can sort yourself in under 30 minutes. In this guide, we’ll walk you through exactly what the 5E code means, the most likely causes, a safe step-by-step fix, and honest advice on when it’s time to call in a professional.
What does this error mean?
The 5E error code (also written as SE, and referred to in some Samsung documentation as a drain error) tells you that your washing machine’s control board has detected that water is not draining from the drum within the expected time. Samsung machines are programmed to drain within a set window during each cycle — typically during the spin phase. If water remains in the drum after repeated attempts to pump it away, the machine throws the 5E code and stops the cycle to prevent flooding or motor damage. In short: water is stuck in the drum, and the machine is refusing to spin or finish its cycle until the drainage problem is resolved. This is a safety feature, not a catastrophic failure — but it does need addressing before the machine will run again.
Est. repair cost
Free–£40 for a DIY fix (filter cleaning costs nothing; a replacement drain pump costs £15–£40 as a part). Professional repair: £80–£150 for a pump replacement including labour; £150–£250 if the PCB is at fault. Typical engineer call-out in the UK: £60–£90 before parts.
🔍 Likely causes
🛠️ Step-by-step fix
Step 1 — Do a hard reset first: Turn the washing machine off at the power switch and unplug it from the wall socket. Wait 5 minutes, then plug it back in and run a short spin-only cycle to see if the error has cleared. This rules out a temporary electronic glitch and costs nothing.
Step 2 — Check the drum for standing water: Look inside the drum. If there is water sitting in it, the machine definitely has a drainage blockage rather than a control board glitch. You’ll need to drain the water manually before proceeding — do not attempt to open the filter with a full drum or you’ll flood your floor.
Step 3 — Manually drain the water using the emergency drain hose: At the bottom front of your Samsung machine, open the access panel (usually a push-clip or screw). You will see a small rubber drain hose with a cap on the end alongside the filter cap. Place a shallow tray or towels on the floor, pull out the small hose, remove the cap, and let the water drain slowly into the tray. Empty the tray as needed. This may take several minutes. Tools needed: flat-head screwdriver (for some panel clips), shallow dish or tray, old towels.
Step 4 — Clean the drain pump filter: Once the water is drained, slowly unscrew the large round filter cap (turn anticlockwise). Have towels ready — some residual water will spill out. Pull the filter fully out and rinse it under a tap, removing all fluff, hair, coins, and debris. Use an old toothbrush to scrub the mesh if needed. Also use a torch to look inside the filter housing and check the pump impeller (the small plastic fan visible at the back of the cavity) — check it can spin freely with your finger. If it’s stiff or blocked by a foreign object, carefully remove the obstruction with needle-nose pliers. Tools needed: old towels, torch, old toothbrush, needle-nose pliers (if required).
Step 5 — Refit the filter and test: Screw the filter cap back in firmly (clockwise) — do not overtighten, but make sure it’s snug or you’ll get a leak. Close the access panel, run a short spin cycle, and watch for the 5E error. If the drum drains and the cycle completes, you’re done.
Step 6 — Check the drain hose at the rear of the machine: Pull the machine out from the wall carefully (ask someone to help — these machines are heavy). Inspect the full length of the drain hose. Look for any kinks, sharp bends, or areas where the hose has been crushed. Straighten any kinks by hand. Ensure the hose is routed smoothly up to the standpipe or sink waste connection. The end of the hose should sit no lower than 60cm and no higher than 100cm from the floor — incorrect height can cause siphoning.
Step 7 — Check the standpipe or sink waste connection: If the drain hose feeds into a kitchen sink waste, check that the sink itself drains freely (run the tap). If the sink drains slowly, the shared waste may be partially blocked — clear it with a drain unblocker or plunger before re-testing the washing machine.
Step 8 — Run a service wash to clear residue: If the machine now drains but you want to be thorough, run a 90°C cotton cycle with no laundry and no detergent (or a proprietary washing machine cleaner such as Dettol Washing Machine Cleaner or Dr. Beckmann Service-it). This flushes out any remaining debris and helps maintain the pump long-term.
Step 9 — If the error persists after all the above, do not continue DIY: If you’ve cleaned the filter, checked the hose, confirmed the standpipe is clear, and the 5E error is still showing — particularly if the pump impeller spins freely — the fault is likely an electrical one: a failed pump motor, a faulty wiring connector, or a PCB issue. At this point, opening the machine further involves accessing live electrical components and is not safe for a non-qualified person. Stop here and call a qualified appliance engineer.
📞 When to call a professional
Call a professional appliance engineer if: the 5E error returns immediately after you’ve cleaned the filter and checked the hose; the pump impeller is completely seized and won’t move even after clearing visible obstructions; you can hear the pump attempting to run but no water is moving (suggests a pump motor or capacitor failure); the machine shows the 5E error with an empty drum and no water present (suggests a wiring or PCB fault); or water is leaking from the filter housing even after refitting it correctly. When you call, tell the engineer: the exact error code (5E or SE), the model number (found on a sticker inside the door rim), that you’ve already cleaned the filter and checked the drain hose, and whether you can hear the pump trying to run. This information will save time and may reduce your call-out charge. Look for an engineer who is registered with the Domestic Appliance Service Association (DASA) or who specialises in Samsung appliances.
⚖️ Repair or replace?
For a Samsung washing machine under 5 years old, repair is almost always the right call — Samsung parts are widely available in the UK and a drain pump replacement is a straightforward job for an experienced engineer. If the fault is a blocked filter (the most common cause), the fix is free. If it’s a failed drain pump, expect to pay £80–£150 all-in for parts and labour. If the control board is at fault, costs rise to £150–£250, at which point the age and original purchase price of the machine become relevant. For machines over 8 years old where the repair cost exceeds £150, it’s worth considering replacement — a new mid-range Samsung washing machine (such as the WW series) costs £400–£600 at UK retailers. As a general rule of thumb used by UK engineers: if the repair costs more than 50% of the cost of a comparable new machine, replace it. Samsung’s parts availability is generally excellent for machines up to 10 years old, so repair is viable for most households.