Dishwasher
E10
The E10 error code on an Electrolux dishwasher signals a water intake or filling problem — the machine isn’t getting enough water, or isn’t getting it fast enough, to run the cycle properly. It’s one of the more common Electrolux fault codes and, reassuringly, it’s often caused by something simple you can sort yourself in under 30 minutes. In this guide, you’ll learn exactly what triggers E10, the most likely culprits, safe DIY steps to work through, and when it’s time to call in a professional.
What does this error mean?
The E10 error code (sometimes displayed as ‘i10’ on older Electrolux models with LED displays) means the dishwasher has detected a water supply fault. Specifically, the control board is telling you that the appliance failed to fill with water — or filled too slowly — within the expected time window during the start of a wash cycle. The dishwasher monitors water intake via a pressure switch or flow meter. When the water level doesn’t reach the required threshold within a set period (typically around 3–5 minutes), it triggers E10 as a safety measure and halts the cycle. This is a protective feature — without enough water, heating elements can burn out and pumps can run dry. The fault points to the water supply side of the machine: the mains connection, the inlet hose, the inlet valve, or the water softener and filter system that sits at the base of the tub.
Est. repair cost
DIY fix (Aquastop hose or inlet filter): £15–£35 for parts. Professional repair (inlet valve replacement, call-out included): £80–£150.
🔍 Likely causes
🛠️ Step-by-step fix
Step 1 — Reset the dishwasher first: Switch the dishwasher off at the mains, wait 60 seconds, then switch it back on and attempt a new cycle. Occasionally a one-off signal glitch triggers E10 falsely, and a hard reset clears it. If E10 returns immediately, move on to the next steps.
Step 2 — Check the water supply tap is fully open: Pull the dishwasher forward slightly (or check the cabinet next to it) and locate the isolator tap on the cold water supply pipe. It should be turned fully anti-clockwise (open). If it was partially closed, open it fully, push the machine back, and retry the cycle.
Step 3 — Inspect the inlet hose for kinks: Carefully pull the dishwasher away from the wall (you may need a helper) and run your hand along the full length of the ribbed inlet hose. If it’s kinked or crushed — often where it bends behind the kick plate — straighten it out, reposition the machine to avoid the kink, and test again.
Step 4 — Clean the inlet hose mesh filter: Turn off the water supply tap, then unscrew the inlet hose from the back of the dishwasher (have a small towel ready for residual water). Inside the hose fitting on the machine, you’ll find a small circular mesh filter. Use a pair of fine-nose pliers or tweezers to carefully pull it out, rinse it under the tap, and use an old toothbrush to remove any limescale or grit. Refit it, reconnect the hose, turn the water back on, and test. No specialist tools required.
Step 5 — Check your mains water pressure: Run a cold tap elsewhere in your home at full flow. If the pressure seems noticeably lower than usual, the issue may be with your household supply rather than the dishwasher. Contact your water supplier (e.g. Thames Water, Anglian Water) to report a pressure issue, and check your mains stopcock under the kitchen sink is fully open.
Step 6 — Inspect and test the Aquastop hose (if fitted): Lay the inlet hose flat and look for the Aquastop device — it’s usually a thicker, solid plastic section at the tap end of the hose, often with a small indicator window. If the indicator has turned red, the Aquastop has triggered. You cannot reset an Aquastop — the entire inlet hose assembly must be replaced. Electrolux Aquastop hoses for common models (e.g. ESF series) are widely available online for £15–£35. Turn off the water, unscrew the old hose from both the tap and the machine, fit the new one, and restore the water supply.
Step 7 — Run a hot cycle with dishwasher cleaner: If you suspect limescale build-up in the valve or pipes, place a dishwasher descaler tablet (such as Finish Dishwasher Cleaner) in the base of the empty machine and run the hottest cycle available. This can sometimes free a partially scaled inlet valve, though it won’t fix a fully seized one.
Step 8 — If the above steps haven’t resolved E10, do NOT attempt to remove or test the water inlet valve or pressure switch yourself: These components sit inside the machine’s body and accessing them involves removing panels and working near electrical terminals. This is the point to call a qualified appliance engineer. Do not open the machine’s casing or touch internal wiring.
📞 When to call a professional
If you’ve worked through all the safe DIY steps above — checked the tap, cleared the inlet filter, inspected the hose for kinks, confirmed your Aquastop hasn’t triggered, and verified your mains pressure is normal — and the E10 error is still appearing, it’s time to call a qualified appliance repair engineer. The most likely remaining causes are a failed water inlet solenoid valve or a faulty pressure switch/flow meter, both of which require the machine’s panels to be removed and electrical components to be tested with a multimeter. This is not DIY territory for most homeowners. When you call, tell the engineer: ‘My Electrolux dishwasher is showing an E10 error code, which I understand is a water fill fault. I’ve checked the supply tap, cleaned the inlet filter, inspected the hose for kinks, and confirmed the Aquastop hasn’t triggered. I suspect either the inlet valve or the pressure switch.’ This gives them everything they need to quote accurately and arrive prepared. Look for an engineer who is registered with a reputable trade body such as the Domestic Appliance Service Association (DASA) or who carries manufacturer-approved parts. Most reputable repair companies will offer a fixed call-out fee of £60–£90 that is redeemable against the repair cost.
⚖️ Repair or replace?
For a straightforward Electrolux dishwasher E10 repair — typically a new inlet valve or Aquastop hose — parts are readily available and labour time is usually under an hour, making professional repair genuinely cost-effective in most cases. The key question is the age of the machine. As a practical rule of thumb: if your Electrolux dishwasher is under 7 years old and has been generally reliable, repair is almost always the right call. A new inlet valve fitted professionally will typically cost £80–£150 all in, compared to £350–£600 for a new mid-range Electrolux dishwasher. If the machine is 10 years old or more, consider the repair cost relative to its remaining lifespan — at that age, other components are statistically more likely to follow. Electrolux is a well-supported brand in the UK with good parts availability from suppliers such as eSpares, 4ourhouse, and Currys PC World Parts. If your machine is between 7 and 10 years old, get a repair quote first: if it comes in under £150, repair; if it’s higher (suggesting multiple failing components), start comparing replacement models.