Dishwasher
F10
The F10 error code on a Candy dishwasher points to a water heating fault — specifically, the appliance isn’t detecting that the water is reaching the correct temperature during a wash cycle. It’s one of the more common faults on Candy machines and, while it can occasionally be fixed with a simple reset, it often signals a component that needs attention. In this guide, we’ll walk you through exactly what’s happening inside your machine, the most likely causes, what you can safely try yourself, and when it’s time to call in a professional.
What does this error mean?
The F10 error code on Candy dishwashers (including models across the Candy, Hoover, and Iberna ranges, which share the same underlying platform) is a water temperature error. Your dishwasher has a built-in NTC thermistor — a small sensor that monitors the water temperature throughout the wash cycle. When the control board asks for the water to heat up and the thermistor reports that the expected temperature hasn’t been reached within a set time, the machine stops the programme and displays F10. In plain terms: your dishwasher is telling you it tried to heat the water but something went wrong. This could be as simple as a glitch in the electronics, or as significant as a failed heating element. The machine has shut down as a safety precaution to prevent damage or a poor wash result.
Est. repair cost
DIY NTC thermistor replacement: £10–£25 for the part. Professional repair (thermistor or element): £80–£160 all-in. Control board replacement: £150–£250+ including labour.
🔍 Likely causes
🛠️ Step-by-step fix
Step 1 — Reset the machine: Turn the dishwasher off at the power switch on the machine, then switch it off at the wall socket. Wait a full 5 minutes (not just 30 seconds) to allow the control board to fully discharge. Switch back on and run a short cycle to see if F10 clears. This resolves the fault in roughly 10–15% of cases where it was caused by a temporary electronic glitch.
Step 2 — Check and clean the filter assembly: A heavily blocked filter can affect water circulation and, in some cases, contribute to heating faults. Remove the bottom rack, unscrew the cylindrical filter at the base of the tub, and rinse it thoroughly under warm running water. Use an old toothbrush to clear any debris from the mesh. Refit securely before running a test cycle.
Step 3 — Run a hot maintenance wash: If you regularly use eco or low-temperature programmes, limescale can build up on the heating element over time. Add a proprietary dishwasher cleaner (such as Finish Machine Cleaner) and run the hottest programme available (typically 70°C or a ‘Hygiene’ cycle if your model has one). This can dissolve light limescale deposits and restore element efficiency.
Step 4 — Check the water supply: Ensure the inlet hose isn’t kinked and that the isolation tap under the sink (if fitted) is fully open. Low water pressure or a partially closed valve can affect fill levels and indirectly trigger heating errors. Your water pressure should ideally be between 0.5 and 10 bar for a Candy dishwasher to operate correctly.
Step 5 — Inspect the door seal and check for leaks: A leaking machine can sometimes trigger multiple fault codes as water reaches areas it shouldn’t. Check around the door seal for cracks or gaps. If you see water pooling under the machine, do not attempt any further DIY — switch it off and call a professional.
Step 6 — Test the NTC thermistor (multimeter required, moderate DIY): If you’re comfortable using a multimeter and have safely isolated the machine from the mains, you can access the NTC thermistor — it’s typically clipped onto the sump or heating element housing at the base of the tub interior. Disconnect the two-pin connector and test resistance across the terminals. At room temperature (around 20°C), a healthy NTC thermistor should read approximately 10,000–15,000 ohms (10–15 kΩ). A reading of zero, infinite resistance, or wildly outside this range confirms a faulty sensor. Replacement NTC thermistors for Candy dishwashers are widely available online for £10–£25 and are generally straightforward to swap out.
Step 7 — Inspect the heating element visually (moderate DIY): With the machine isolated from the mains and the bottom rack removed, look at the visible section of the heating element (the horseshoe-shaped metal loop at the base of the tub). Heavy white or grey limescale crust, visible burn marks, or a broken/cracked element are all signs of failure. Do NOT attempt to test or replace the heating element yourself unless you are confident working with electrical appliances — if in doubt, stop here and call an engineer.
Step 8 — Check wiring connections (only if you are confident and the machine is fully isolated): If you have confirmed the thermistor and element both appear physically fine, a loose or corroded connector on the wiring loom is the next suspect. With the machine unplugged, carefully remove the kick plate or base panel (a screwdriver is usually all that’s needed) and visually inspect the wiring connections to the heating element and thermistor. Gently push any connectors that appear loose back into place. Do not attempt this step if you are not comfortable working around appliance wiring — call a professional instead.
Step 9 — If none of the above resolves the fault, stop DIY here: A persistent F10 after completing all the above steps points strongly to either a failed heating element, a faulty control board, or a wiring fault that requires proper diagnosis with specialist equipment. At this point, further DIY risks making the fault worse or creating a safety hazard. It’s time to book an engineer.
📞 When to call a professional
You should call a qualified appliance engineer if: the F10 error returns immediately after a reset; you’ve cleaned the filter and run a maintenance wash with no improvement; your multimeter test shows a failed NTC thermistor and you’re not confident replacing it; or you suspect the heating element or control board is at fault. When you call, tell the engineer you have a Candy dishwasher displaying an F10 fault code, that you’ve already performed a hard reset and cleaned the filter, and share your model number (found on the inner door frame label) — this will save time and may allow them to bring the right parts on the first visit. Avoid using the machine until the fault is resolved, as running a dishwasher with a heating fault can result in poorly sanitised dishes and potential secondary damage to other components.
⚖️ Repair or replace?
For a Candy dishwasher showing F10, the repair decision largely depends on the age of the machine and which component has failed. Replacing the NTC thermistor is cheap and straightforward — parts cost £10–£25 and a competent DIYer can do it in under 30 minutes. A heating element replacement typically costs £20–£50 for the part, but fitting it professionally will add £60–£90 in labour. A control board (PCB) replacement is the most expensive scenario, with the part alone ranging from £80–£150 for common Candy models, plus labour — at that point you’re looking at a total repair bill that may rival the cost of a new entry-level dishwasher. As a general rule: if your Candy dishwasher is under 5 years old, repair is almost always worth it. Between 5–8 years, weigh the repair quote carefully against a replacement. Over 8–10 years, particularly if this isn’t the first fault, replacement is likely the more economical and reliable long-term choice. New Candy dishwashers start from around £250–£350 at major UK retailers, and parts availability for older Candy models (particularly pre-2015) can be patchy, which may push you towards replacement sooner.